Amsterdam
Yes, all the things you heard about The Netherlands and Amsterdam are true. Gay couples can get married legally, buying and smoking soft drugs is permitted, prostitution is just a business as any other and we have legalized euthanasia (when a patient explicitly asks for a soft dead, the doctor can not be prosecuted). So, are we a country of Sodom and Gomorra, you might ask. Well, I don't think so. Most Dutch people are just glad they live in a country which gives them a lot of freedom and which isn't narrow-minded about topics like sexuality and the right to decide over your own life.
Amsterdam takes the
prize for liberal thinking. And let's face it, Amsterdam's reputation precedes it; however, the evolution of this city is not
confined to the liberal policies that are evident in the Red-light District. Amsterdam offers exceptional cultural fare,
stunning architecture, rich history, over 50 museums, numerous bars, pubs and restaurants and a gay scene that can't be beat.
Amsterdam and all of its sights are in a compact area, so the ideal ways to travel around are foot, bicycle and public
transportation. Bicycles are available for rent from Central Station. Taxis are very expensive, period! The public system, the
GVB, in Amsterdam consists of the tramline, metro, buses, night buses and ferries. The OV Chip Card is valid on all of
these modes of transport (and throughout the Netherlands) and is available at the GVB offices, post offices, some tobacconists,
and train station ticket counters. The card must be scanned when boarding the vehicle to check in, and scanned again when getting off in order to check out.
Amsterdam centre is quite compact and the land is fairly flat. Stately houses line the canals and over 1000 bridges gave
Amsterdam it nickname "Venice of Northern Europe".
There are 725,000 inhabitants, and apparently 450,000 bicycles. Needless to say, many locals get around by bike. The city is
very bike friendly, and equally so for pedestrians (both bikers and pedestrians have way over motorists in the city). Before you
set off on foot, a great way to get your bearings is by previewing Amsterdam from the deck of one of the numerous tour boats
that travel on the canals.
what to see
Dam Square has been the
centre of town since 1270, when a dam first blocked the river Amstel. On its shoulder is the Royal
Palace which was built as the city hall in the 1600s. Excellent Dutch design is evident by the grand structure's frontage, and also inside, where on display is a miniature bronze
universe, and elaborate stone masonry is as matter-of-factly on the walls as a postcard on the fridge. It is fine example of the
wealth and power of the many merchants who made their fortune in the Golden Age and who were the real rulers of the Netherlands,
which was the first Republic in Europe. Only after Napoleon it became a monarchy.
Next door is the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) originally
constructed in the 1400's. It has had various reconstructions through the ages due to fires and religious disputes. Nowadays the
church has been recreated a museum, which displays fine arts and artifacts from around the world in a marvelous setting.
The museum quarter has several famous and diverse collections. The ultimate collection of the masters is held at the Rijksmuseum,
exhibiting the work of such artists as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Steen, as well as traveling exhibitions and the static collections
of prints and sculptures.
The Van Gogh Museum houses over 200 paintings, including some of the works by other
painters who influenced him. The renowned Stedelijk Museum leads the way in presenting
modern and contemporary art including drawings, prints, paintings, sculptures, photography, and multimedia. And right next door
is the world famous Concertgebouw, home of the Concertgebouw Orchestra.
A more sombre
but worthwhile exhibit in the Old Town is at the Anne
Frank House. This is the location in which the Frank family hid for two years during WW II to evade deportation to labour
camps. On display are the preserved annex where the Franks lived, and the original diary of Anne Frank, which has now been
published in fifty-five languages. The Franks were eventually betrayed to the Nazis, and sent to the camps; only the father
survived.
Close by is the Homomonument, which was produced in 1987 to commemorate the gays and
lesbians who also died in the concentration camps during WW II. It is the world's only monument dedicated to gays who died in
the nazi camps. The monument is formed of pink granite triangles inscribed with the words of 19th century Dutch gay writer Jacob
Israel de Haan, "such an infinite desire for friendship." In summer there is also a stand: the Pink Point of Presence
which offers info about gay events, pubs and cafes and where you can buy gay souvenirs.
Amsterdam also offers excellent exhibitions on the lighter side of things. Madame Tussauds Scenerama presents in wax The Netherlands's Golden Age, the Dutch royal family, and celebrities. For some, the kitsch of Madame Tussauds is painful enough to be a joint exhibit at the Torture Museum which displays methods of cruel and unusual punishment. The Tattoo Museum records and exhibits the international history of tattooing. The Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum doesn't promote drug use but aims to inform visitors on cannabis and its related products. The Sexmuseum Venustempel exhibits everything about sex, from Japanese ivory dildos to old chastity belts, to sex diagrams, to a 1930's porn flick and more, way more.
Finally, the famous red-light
district "De Wallen" as they are called. This area is shaped like a triangle roughly outlined by Centraal Station,
the Nieuwmarkt and the Dam.
Yes, everything you've heard is true. Prostitution is legal, soft drugs are legal, and there is something for everyone. There
are numerous sex clubs, cinemas and houses of boys. The Netherlands' sensible social outlook extends to prostitution, which is
ostensibly well-regulated.
Amsterdam's red-light area is famous, but all the cities have their own crawls. Prostitutes display themselves in windowed
booths, and when there is custom, the curtain is drawn across for the duration. The mainly self-employed prostitutes are taxed
on their earnings, undergo mandatory health checks and have a vocal union. For every happy hooker, however, there's an unhappy
one, perhaps a young Eastern European without the right papers, sucked into a vicious circle of high hopes, drug addiction and
extortion. There is one thing you should avoid however: don't take pictures of the prostitutes.
and finally
Soft drugs are available for purchase and consumption at licensed 'coffee shops' (not to be confused with a 'koffiehuis' which
is a regular coffeehouse), which has already caused the Dutch some serious problems with our more conservative neighbours,
especially the French. Hash and pot are available on menus separate from the food menu. It's preferred that buyers smoke their
dope where they buy it, in private or at clubs that permit (ask if in doubt). Smoking on the street is a bit questionable.
Headshops sell many other soft drugs, mushrooms, herbal ecstasy, and so on.
All hard drugs such as cocaine, heroine, speed and ecstasy are illegal. And steer clear of people dealing drugs on the street.
In Amsterdam, practically
everyone and everything is gay friendly. The gay scene is thriving with
many gay bars and hangouts to be found. In the summer time, there is hardly anyone inside the bars, as they have all over flowed
into the patios and streets. There are many sex parties for men, and most of the bars have a darkroom. Most leather bars are
situated around Warmoesstraat, and the younger and trendier men hang around Reguliersdwarsstraat.
In general gay men's bars are exclusive for men, unlike the women friendly gay bars of North America. For lesbians the scene is
not so obvious; there are only a couple of lesbian bars and lesbian nights around town.
A free map of Amsterdam's gay venues can be found in the bars and at gay- friendly establishments.
Gay Pride happens in August and is a stupendous event. The parade floats actually do float, as they cruise along Prinsen Canal,
beginning at Westerdok. And everyone, gay or otherwise, comes out to witness or perform in this spectacle. A separate
celebration for Leather Pride takes place in November.
The Channels offers a virtual tour on Amsterdam with hundreds of images and links to all Amsterdam has to offer.